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reefsRcool

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sounds like you are headed in a good direction. when i had my fowlr 55 setup i used a 48" twin shop light robbed from the storage shed at work. ugly as sin, but well within my budget. i decided it was most efficient just to sit the fixture right down on the tank's lip. just be careful you never bump it hard enough with your elbow to dump it in. that would suck for sure. i found i had to wipe salt off the bulbs on a weekly basis, but for a basically free fixture it was worth it. not sure if you can get one in the six foot (never looked had a four foot tank so no need too) but they have 6500k bulbs at the depot for like $6 much cheaper then a special fish tank type bulb and since you are running actics(i'll assume) anyway it's no biggie. if it were me i wold want four bulbs over the tank and run three of them the 6500k and one good quality actinic. as far as the wiring goes. white and black are interchangable and green is your ground. for mine it worked out cheapest to buy an extesion cord cut it about four feet from the plug and wire it right to the ballast. you can use little orange twistymahoosies, or break out the soldering iron like i did. just use tons of tape over whatever you do because salt water is wicket conductive and no matter how carful you are some will get in there.

another thing you may want to look into since it's a wall unit and lighting is going to be out of sight is the lightsofamerica 65 watt compact florecent fixture from home depot. i have one running over my refugium and it's a decent little fixture for $28 bucks bulb included. at 5500k definatly would need actinic suplimentation for use in a display tank though but still. put three of them up there with one or two NO actinic tubes and you got alot of bang for the buck. just something to think about. with a little inginuity you should be able to pull something together for under $100.

you seem to be all hungup on a hood. i think it's safe to say 80% of us have our tanks open. a hood's only worthwile funtion is too hide ugly lighting which for you isn't a concern. IME they keep to much heat in, limmit gas exchange and just plain get in the way when you want to fiddle around. while you are at the depot i would highly recomend you get one of those aplience timers. i have had trouble(lots) with the cheapo plasic peg ones not tipping the switch as the pegs pass so i would recomend a digital one. no probs since i switched. fish like to be on a regular scedule and it sure comes in handy those nights you never make it back from the bar.
ok that was far to long, sorry :roll: i hope you at least got something useful from it.
 

aquarist=broke

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reefsRcool":jcj9t3ay said:
i have had trouble(lots) with the cheapo plasic peg ones not tipping the switch as the pegs pass so i would recomend a digital one. no probs since i switched.
I agree with the above. Those cheepo's really love to stop working like clockwork, and when you get home from work the lights will be off today, on tomorrow, and who knows what ever else.
 

IcantTHINKofONE

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Thanx for the advice on the timers. I was looking at those lights of america because they are so cheap. I will probably take your advice on it.

P.S. ReefsRcool, thanx for replying even after our "disputes". I hope there aren't any hard feelings. And after reading so much on this board I, myself, hipocritically have become concerned with the health and "happiness" of the animals in my tank. I'm going to try my best to make less stupid mistakes and think a little more sensible from now on.
 
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Anonymous

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compatible with all standard and electronic ballasts

Hang on guys- I don't know this bulb, but by standard I assume they mean a tar or magnetic ballast, as opposed to an electronic ballast. That doesn't mean its not vho- particularly since they describe it as "high-intensity". Normal bulbs will run on vho ballasts, but I don't think vho bulbs can run without a special vho ballast.

Have a link to the site?
 
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IcantTHINKofONE":2n7y0eqa said:
Does the placement matter? Should the compact flourescents be towards the back and the actinics towards the front? or vise versa?

that's mostly a matter of your personal taste in how the tank looks- fiddle with it both ways-whichever is pleasing to your eye, go with it...
 
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Anonymous

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DanConnor":3gjlmmak said:
compatible with all standard and electronic ballasts

Hang on guys- I don't know this bulb, but by standard I assume they mean a tar or magnetic ballast, as opposed to an electronic ballast. That doesn't mean its not vho- particularly since they describe it as "high-intensity". Normal bulbs will run on vho ballasts, but I don't think vho bulbs can run without a special vho ballast.

Have a link to the site?

Dan-it's a normal output bulb(99 and 44/100's % sure)-not vho. :)
 

reefsRcool

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yeah, i'm not a grudge holder and it seems like your recent posts were alittle more responsible so i'll help when i can.

just an FYI some people have had issues with the LOA fixtures. i have only had mine running for about three weeks so it's to early for me to say it's the greatest thing since sliced bread but it's sure is giving me my $28 worth so far.

i would try to bet the actinics balanced if possible if you go with NO florecents put the actinic in the middle, LOA put two actinics in, one one each side of the pendents. post up some pics once you build whatever you end up with.
 

IcantTHINKofONE

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I went to Home depot to get the LOA lights but they are not the small square ones pictured on the first page of this post. They are 48" fixtures that hold 2 bulbs. The bulbs seem to be double ended and thin. They look like regular flourescents just very thin. is this what I should get? 2 of these and 2 NO actinics?
 
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Anonymous

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they are normal flourescent bulbs, just T8's, probably(refers to the bulbs diameter)-one fixture w/o actinics will also be fine for fish-if you want actinics cuz of the better color effect when fish viewing, try the 50/50 corallife flourescents.(T12 should fit as well, along with T8-the pin distance is the same)-the 50/50's will give the increased 'flourescence' of your fishes colors, without the dramatic 'blueness' associated with pure actinics.
 
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Anonymous

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fwiw-never run anywhere!usually causes accidents.. :P

seems like you found a 48" flourescent fixture-good.

you can either use the standard issue 'cool white' flourescent bulbs also available at home depot, or the 50/50's from your lfs, depending on the 'look' you want the tank to have.
 
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Anonymous

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fairly sure corallife makes 'em in both-why not ask 'em-or your lfs?
the T8 diameter may be a bit brighter, or last a bit longer-but the difference is minimal.

worst case scenario-take the fixture to your lfs to fit the bulbs.

luck!
 
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Anonymous

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your question has already been answered-please read the posts!
 

IcantTHINKofONE

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vitz thanx. I just called coralife and checked out Hellolights.com. They sell 48" T8 50/50 bulbs. I'm gonna go with 4 of those and 2 actinic NO t-12s. thanx again.
 

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